Black Sugar Magic

Okinawa black sugar is sweet and strong, adding intensity to desserts and a subtle kick to barbecue sauce.

Written by Regina Schrambling • Styled by Roscoe Betsill • Photographed by Jim Franco • Produced By Susan Tyree Victoria

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Sugar is becoming the new salt—no trend-respecting cook can settle for just one kind. The latest addition to the great American pantry is Okinawa black sugar. Its flavor is so deep and dark it’s almost like granulated molasses. Pastry chefs around the country have been the earliest adopters, using it to heighten the caramel taste in desserts, such as in a blacksugar tart (following page) modeled on a classic southern chess pie. But it works just as well on the savory side of the menu, especially in barbecue sauce for arctic char (or ribs).

Made from cane juice, Okinawa black sugar comes in a hard brick (you can order it on Amazon.com), and it needs to be grated or chopped before measuring. The easiest way to enjoy it, though, is just to melt it with heavy cream to make a sauce to pour over ice cream or cake. It’s like instant dulce de leche.